Another lovely sunny day for a glorious stretch of coast, starting from where we left off last time, checking on Boscaswell fogou.
We were glad to leave the ruined landscape of Geevor behind and quickly found ourselves on a classic cliff path, walking just outside the margin of cultivation with an ancient granite boulder wall to our right and a vertiginous cliff and a turquoise sea to our left.
Rounding Pendeen Watch with its smart lighthouse, whose windows were being cleaned from a cherry-picker, we sighted Gurnard’s Head which was a pretty constant companion on this walk. It was also a reluctant one for it seemed never to get any closer and occasionally hid behind another head, fooling us into thinking it might suddenly pop out and ‘Boo’ us.
We resisted the temptation to turn inland to Borlase’s house to inspect Pendeen fogou, remembering the need for serious welly boots to wade through the slurry.
As civilisation fell away, the path became sublime: easy walking on a firm surface. The flowers, provided a degree of delight and we added blue sheepsbit scabious to our collection as well as something that looked like an orchid but has, so far, defied better description.
The National Trust has done some good work repairing the path and creating bridges. We particularly enjoyed one which had a lintel which was large enough to grace Stonehenge and which had been elegantly provided with a handrail.
Porthmeor cove was another surprise. Although largely rocky, it offered a landing beach for a small boat. Close inspection of the headlands alongside showed they were populated by climbers attempting to find a way up. We simply used the path.
We took a break for lunch overlooking Gurnard’s Head, which was almost teeming with other walkers. It seemed strange to be looking at another Trereen Dinas close to Treen, much as we had done a few weeks ago on the south coast.
Treen Cove lay below. Here stood a house which must vie for one the greatest houses on the coast path, rivalling the Rinsey House and an unnamed one we found deep on the Lizard. Isolated on its little promontory, it seemed to have its own private beach and rocks, plus the picturesque ruins of a mine. How different it would have been when those mines were working.
A short distance onwards took us to the foot of Zennor for be warned, despite appearances, Zennor is actually at the top of a steep climb from whichever direction you approach it.
A stiff uphill stretch and we linked up with our previous walk and so completed Penwith and almost everything from Mawgan Porth to St Anthony’s Head. ‘Almost’ meaning a couple of half kilometre stretches which we will complete at some point.
We had taken 3 and half hours to cover 7.5 miles.
We looked in on Morvah, Madron and Gulval churches on the way home, avoiding the competing delights of Porthmeor fogou, the Men and Tol, Lanyon Quoit, Madron well … all of which we had visited before. The area is so rich in evidence of the past.